Slice the leeks on an angle, about 2 cm thick. Put a large casserole - type pan (ideally one you’d be happy to serve in) on a medium heat and add a drizzle of oil, the butter, thyme and garlic. As things begin to bubble and fry, stir in the leeks. Leave to cook, and check on it every few minutes to stir and make sure it doesn’t catch.

At this point, you have two choices: one is good, one is great. You can either stir the rest of the ingredients into the leeks then put into the oven to cook at 180C/gas 4 for 45 minutes uncovered, or, if you want the sweetest leeks in the world (and I think you do), turn the heat under the pan down a little and cook the leeks for about 35 minutes, stirring every now and then so they get soft and intensely gorgeous.

Season, then spoon it all into a dish, or leave in the pan. Stir in the cream and splash of water, sprinkle over the cheddar and parmesan, then pull the brie into parts and bomb those on top. Pop in the oven 20 minutes before you’ll serve dinner and cook for 15 minutes, till golden and bubbling.